The Longshank Blowback Rig
Štítky:
The longshank blowback rig
My most favourite rig for many different kind of waters with almost no snags is the longshank blowback rig. I have already used a lot of different kinds of rigs. But this one seems to provide me less hook pulls and a high rate of hooking fish. Even if it’s a bit more complicated to build it has a lot of benefits which are worth the time building it.
There are many kinds of opinions on this rig and many anglers don’t trust in this kind of rig. Just give it a try and you will see if this rig will suit your requirements. All the characteristics I’m going to mention are based on my own opinion and on my experiences while using it. As a matter of principle you should choose the best matching components for a well balanced and good working rig.
With a thicker and less flexible a hooklink you should choose a heavier and bigger hook. I’m always keeping an eye on the ability of the hook to turn in an aggressive way when lifting the bait upwards, like a carp sucking in the boilie. The pin of the hook should turn downwards only by the weight of the hook itself to have a high chance of hooking the fish right in the bottom section of the mouth.
Let’s take a look on how to build this rig:
I use the following parts to knot the blowback rig:
Longshank hook
Rig ring
Line aligner or a short piece of shrinktube
Braided hooklink with removable coating
Tungsten putty
Anti tangle sleeve
Quicklink swivel
- Unroll the coated hooklink depending on the final length of the rig (approx. 40cm) and strip off 16 cm of the coating. In combination with the Implex Hooklink of Carpleads with 25lbs breaking strength I’m using a size 8 Korda Longshank hook. I always check the sharpness of the hook in the palm of my hand. If I’m not content with the result I’m using some sharpening tools to be sure the hook will perfectly grip in the mouth of the carp.
- At first I tie a simple loop to the braided section. The knot of the hair should be placed in the bottom bait of the snowman presentation so the boilie and the popup won’t move around too much. For example I tie a loop of 25-30mm when I’m using a 20 mm boilie and a 16 mm popup. After that I use a boilie needle and apply my bait using a boilie stop to hold everything in place.
- In step three I thread a rig ring on the link and use a simple overhand knot to determine the length of the hair. The bigger the bait the more space should remain between the boilie and the rig ring. This will increase the ability of the hook to turn. A second overhand knot finally holds the rig ring in place even during hard fights with the fish. Place the rig ring on the shank of the hook at the height between the pin and the barb. Tie a 5 to 6 turn no knot. Having finished the knot an uncoated section of 1-2 cm should remain below the eye of the hook.
- Thread the line aligner over the eye of the hook. I use to cut a piece off of it that the aligner doesn’t cover the whole knot.
- Pull the coating back a bit and a small rippled section will occur. This provides a great basis for the putty to knead around.
- Put on the anti tangle sleeve and determine the length of the hooklink. Knot a figure of eight loop to the end of the rig and tighten it with a knot puller. I use a quicklink swivel to attach the rig to my mainline.
- I prefer this rig to other ones in most cases. If I’m fishing snaggy or weedy waters I prefer to use hooks with a shorter shank. In my opinion the bigger leverage of the long shank can damage the mouth of the carp if there’s too much pressure during playing the fish.
This rig has really great hooking The long shank of the hook needs a long way to be ejected completely when the fish tries to blow out the hook. The rig turns quickly and the sliding rig ring creates some more pressure on the pin of the hook when being blown out. At least on paper.
Have fun while building and testing this rig.
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